Seasonal Structure and Climate Modulation of Waves Along the California Coast

This project aims to examine seasonal wave variability along the California coast using multi-decadal buoy observations from NOAA’s National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP). We analyze significant wave height and dominant wave period to quantify differences between winter storm and summer swell-dominated conditions. In comparing seasonal significant wave height, period distributions, and swell versus wind chop fractions, we characterize contrasts from Northern California to the Santa Barbara Channel. We then assess how ENSO phases modify winter wave conditions, providing insight into how large-scale climate variability influences regional coastal wave structure across the coast.